DragonFlyer 3.2
Kit materials and parts: options


• Sailing options: sails

• Reef in the main sail.
The reef in the main is rigged as a slab reef (that is it can be taken in quickly at just the luff and leech) at the first batten so it is easy to take in, strong, and and the strain will have very little effect on the overall sail. The reef reduces the main by about 25%.

• Colored main and jib.
Sails built by Maine Sailing Partners. Challenge Sailcloth dacron.
Please see http://www.challengesailcloth.com/cruise/3_8.pdf

- Available colors: red, dark blue, medium blue, green, yellow, black, orange-gold, orange, gray, silver gray, lilac purple, purple, fluorescent yellow-green,, natural, cream.

- Two-color design: Please inquire with a sketch of your idea and we will get you a quote. However, as our sailmaker reminded us, “please keep it simple, these are [relatively] small sails!”

Asymmetrical (sail plus related hardware and rigging) Sail built by Maine Sailing Partners. Bainbridge MP75 nylon spinnaker cloth
Please see: http://www.bainbridgeintcatalogs.com/pdf_catalogs_brochures/ spinnakerfabric.pdf

In general an asymmetrical has the great advantage of being an off-wind sail that handles like a big jib, that is, there is no pole to shift in tacks as there would be with a spinnaker. Generally an asymmetrical can also be made to point higher than traditional spinnakers. In designing the asymmetrical for the DragonFlyer John wanted a multipurpose sail that worked well for reaching, both broad reaching (nearly downwind) and close reaching, since broad reaching and tacking downwind are the way to go (and go faster . . .). Also, he wanted a sail that could be deployed as soon as possible after the sheets were eased from close-winded sailing, so that more sail could be put up quickly when wanted. The asymmetrical is great fun!

- Colors: choice of white, black, red, pink, yellow, green, aqua blue, royal blue, silver gray (all colors, including white, are the same price).

- Two-color design: Please inquire with a sketch of your idea and we will get you a quote. However, as our sailmaker reminded us (again), “please keep it simple, this is [relatively] small sail!”

- Hardware: (two fairleads, cheek block, regular block, two cleats) and rigging (enough 3/16" Sta-set braided line to make a halliard, an outhaul, and two sheets.)

FlyerTwo larger main and jib The original sail rig was designed to give the boat a great-performing, more affordable sail plan that also works well for lighter weight sailors and those learning how to sail. This rig has proven itself to be very effective. However, we have had requests for a bigger rig. The FlyerTwo rig has a taller main and more overlap on the jib so the center of effort has moved only a very small amount, mostly up, so the boat continues to balance well and has good stability. The taller main has the added advantage of getting more sail area up high where the wind is blowing a little stronger, a big help in light airs, particularly. We worked to make this rig option very affordable and flexible to use. It will fly on the same mast, boom, and bowsprit as the Flyer One rig, it just needs a taller yard for the main.

• Sailing options: hardware

Asymmetrical NO SAIL, hardware and rigging only (2 fairleads, Harken cheek block, regular Harken block, 2 cleats) and rigging (enough 3/16" Sta-set braided line to make a halliard, an outhaul, and 2 sheets.).

Performance sailing package This includes four sets of fittings and rigging: vang; Harken block on the sole; and 2 Harken cam cleats.

The vang consists of two blocks, strap eyes to attach the blocks to the boom and the boat near the base of the mast, a cleat, and a length of 3/16" Sta-Set braided line. The vang pulls the boom down to control the shape of the sail, particularly the amount of twist in the sail, a big help for getting all the drive out of the main that you can.

The original kit comes with jam cleats for the jib, which work well, but certainly are not as smooth, fast, easy, and handy as the Harken ball bearing cam cleats included in the performance package.

Part of getting the optimum performance out of the main sail is being able to adjust the traveler. The two jam cleats originally for the jib are installed just forward of the strap eyes for the traveler and light lines are secured to the main sheet thimble on the traveler, and run through the strap eyes and secured on the jam cleats for easy and secure adjusting.

Leading the main sheet to a block on the sole is not essential for sailing the boat, but it makes it oh so much nicer and more comfortable to have the sheet lead up to your hand rather than down and over from the boom. This is particularly evident when you are try to get the boom in that last inch or two when sailing hard on the wind in a breeze. You can apply a lot more power pulling up and you'll have a much easier time hanging onto the sheet for long periods when it leads from down by your feet. A strap- eye is fastened securely to the sole along the centerline, then the block is attached to it with a rope grommet.

• “Second Rig” kit.
If you want to alternate easily and quickly between FlyerOne & FlyerTwo mains and jibs, you’ll need this kit:
• 15’ of 1/4" Sta-Set Braid for the jib sheets that are attached to the clew of the jib,
• Another pair of fairleads for leading those sheets to a different place in the boat,
The kit also includes Douglas fir blank for an extra yard.

• Hiking stick kit
The hiking stick kit includes an ash blank (to match the tiller), plus the hardware to easily attach (and un-attach) the hiking stick to the tiller; and building instructions. A hiking stick allows you to comfortably control the rudder from wherever you wish to sit—in or on the boat.

• Hiking straps
3’ length of 2” webbing with D-rings securely sewn on the ends. These are attached with lanyards or clips to strap eyes fastened to the sole, near the centerline. Set of three: one aft of the trunk, and one on each side of the trunk.

• Hull options

• Kick-up rudder kit.
Pre-cut marine ply rudder and pivoting cheeks; hardware; bronze cleat. If you’ll be sailing your boat on and off beaches, boat ramps, or other shallow shores, a kick-up rudder that pivots up even with the skeg is wonderfully convenient. This kit allows you to build or convert the standard rudder to a kick-up rudder.

• Extra deck plates.
You can install these watertight deck plates in the under-deck flotation tanks for access and ventilation, or anywhere else inside the boat. Black marine plastic, 8”.

• Drain plug.
Bronze, threaded. For the bottom of the boat, for times on dry land when you need to let rain- or wash water drain out. A single drain plug is fine.

• Transom drains.
2" diameter with a flap valve that lets water drain out of the cockpit but won't let it in. A pair of transom drains is better, that way one drain is low enough to drain when the boat is heeled.

Bronze cleats. We’ve specified black nylon/plastic cleats as standard since they work well and look fine. Bronze cleats are lovely and work well, but alas they are getting dearer all the time. We’re happy to supply very fine bronze regular and jam cleats (made here in Maine) if you would prefer them.